Thursday, July 27, 2023

1928 Paris Auto Show

 

The Salon de l'Automobile is a biennial auto show in Paris. Held during October annually for a century, and then in even years for the last quarter century (Munich & Tokyo are the locations for odd years). It is the oldest, founded in 1898 and the most attended auto show in the world. It is important because of the debuts of new production automobiles and concept cars. The show was organized by Chambre Syndicale de l'Automobile at the time, but now is run by an association of international auto manufacturers.

For the 1928 show, 80 French automakers had displays compared to only 26 from America. It remains mostly French, but with fewer and fewer manufacturers in the world, individual manufacturers now have larger displays. 

I had wanted to write a unique article on the women involved with this particular salon, but although I have access to dozens of articles on the 1928 edition, I do not have access to the Bulletin Officiel de la 22e Chambre Syndicale Nationale l'Automobile Salon which would possibly provide me the info. (in French). Paget’s is the only one mentioning women.

The articles I found were often by representatives of American manufacturers saying nothing about the show except that their company was the best poised for a major sales increase in 1929.  I also found articles on cars with yellow chrome, colorful roofs, fenders, and brake drums. There were articles detailing the color schemes of many cabriolet limousines the French companies displayed, and articles on mechanical advances like four-wheel brakes & independent front suspension.

 

Women's Wear Magazine

 


The lineage of Women’s Wear Magazine – now WWD, has both an oft copied mythical background and a true back story. Mythically, E. W. Fairchild bought a press rag from success selling soap, and single-handedly turned it into an international leader in women’s fashion overnight, his seeing a huge void in the market.

The true story begins with John B. Waldo, son of a successful lumber merchant, who began working as a grocery clerk in his teens. He was hired by Howard, White, Crowell & Co. in 1885 for the Chicago Commercial Bulletin and soon he was editing the publication. In 1890 Waldo founded the Chicago Apparel Gazette with funding by stock broker, Edmund Wade Fairchild, whose younger brothers operated a successful soap business.  On March 29, 1892 Fairchild used his own money this time to join Waldo to found the Waldo-Fairchild company, operating the Chicago Apparel Gazette, and to directly compete with Howard, White and Crowell by starting the Daily Trade Record with plans to distribute it at the Chicago World’s Fair in 1893. Its success was truly in covering the men’s apparel industry, though. 

I don’t have access to preserved copies of both newspapers, (Even the Chicago Public Library doesn’t have preserved copies) so I don’t know that they did use the same writers/stories for both papers, but it seems likely. They both were known by varying names throughout their lives, including the Daily News Record, later shortened to just DNR (to de-emphasize that the once daily publication had been decreased to just three times a week and then eventually once a week). The headquarters of Waldo-Fairchild moved to Manhattan, near the garment district and Madison Ave. in 1901.  The Chicago Apparel Gazette continued publication in Chicago and the company found two additional fashion magazines, Men’s Wear and Hat Life. In 1910, Women’s Wear Magazine began as a once-a-week page in DNR, was spun off as a standalone in 1919, and later became a daily. 

Eventually, the Chicago Apparel Gazette became Men’s Wear- Chicago Apparel Gazette edition continuing at least until WWII. In 1983, Men’s Wear, was shortened to M.  Women’s Wear Daily was shortened to WWD – not W. W, also a fashion magazine, once published by Fairchild, was founded separately, in 1972; Wikipedia highlights W’s oversized format as a difference between the two magazines.

Importantly for the life of the myth, Fairchild bought out Waldo entirely in 1903 and his son and grandson were the publishers until the company’s merger with, yes, The Disney Company in 1997.  Disney is not the only local tie to the story, however. The Fairchilds working as stock brokers included Edmund’s nephew Allan N Fairchild, and Allan is buried in the San Marcos Cemetery.

 

 

Women Were Big Consumers of Automobiles

 

Within the October 24, 1928 issue of The Madera Tribune there is an article titled “Fashion Wave has Hit Auto”.

This single article introduces way more than I should put into a single issue.  I plan to spread out my ideas through a short series, each issue covering several ideas and what I’ve found to back them up.  I’ll start with the article itself:

 FASHION WAVE HAS HIT AUTO

By FRANCES PAGET Copyright, 1928, by Women's Wear Magazine '

NEW YORK. Oct. 23. — (United Press) — Women's influence was marked and commented on freely by the International press when the Paris Automobile Exposition opened its doors. Indeed many of the cars were decorated by women artists, and all attested to the influence of women and fashion.


New baggage contrivances, such as hat boxes and coat hangers, were introduced, and such materials as tapestry and leopard skin were reported as effectively used for madame's sedan. What a change from the early days of the automobile, when practically everything about It. and certainly its linen dusters, and goggles and helmets and veils were unsightly.

A woman, be she driver or passenger, is no longer handicapped in her choice of effective motoring garb. She Is inclined to go to the length of preserving harmony in the coloring of her car and her costumes. The feminization of fashion, which for a while was swayed by masculine Influences Is commented on further in Paris reports whether women are becoming more feminine, whatever that may mean, or whether the upper classes are again leisure classes, the Haute Couture has paid increased attention to negligees for the last year or so, and one can find in Paris a great variety of type design with a slight leaning toward modernistic effects. The entire feeling in the mode today is for apparel appropriate to the occasion, and expressive of not only of one’s individuality, but of one’s endeavor.

I hope to answer who was Frances Paget? What was Women’s Wear Magazine? What was the Paris Automobile Exposition? Who were some of the women artists who decorated the displayed cars and how were they unusual?

What was a car’s hat box and a coat hanger? How have car interiors changed over the years? How did ladies dress in the early days of cars?

What’s the history of women dressing in shades that harmonize with their cars? Did women at an earlier time dress more to attract men than to look like a woman or to be comfortable? Did the Jazz Age—when the upper classes let loose and partied — wait until October 1928 to debut in  Paris? What special improvements to a woman’s nighties were made in 1927? Did dressing for your endeavor gain a certain flair in the late twenties?

Throughout this series, I’ll let you know roadblocks I encounter and hope to lend you an idea of what the readers of that article might have understood that it was trying to tell them and what, if anything, might have been influenced to change by the 1928 Paris Automobile Exposition.

 

Wednesday, July 26, 2023

Frances Paget Era Editor for Women's Wear Magazine

 

Frances Paget was born July 23, 1879, the youngest child of multi-talented school teacher/cooper/and wealthy farmer, Silas Padgett, in Owego, New York, a village on the Pennsylvania boarder, 70 miles north of Scranton. In 1928 she became a nationally syndicated fashion expert not because she was born to it, but by taking many small steps.

Paget trained to become a teacher, attending little Elmira College, the closest teacher’s college to Owego. She was hired as one of the first French teachers at the first high school in the Bronx, Morris High School.  Some of her famous students may have included, Armand Hammer, industrialist; Meyer Weisgal, Polish-American journalist and playwright; Max Lieber, Polish-American literary agent; Arthur Murray, ballroom dancer; Alex Osburn, advertising executive and man who coined the term Brainstorming; and even Mae Questel, the actress who voiced Betty Boop and Olive Oil; and late in her teaching, Milton Berle, although as an established child star who claimed that his higher education came from ”Clown College”, he probably was not her best student.

She enjoyed her life as an unmarried teacher. With summers off, she traveled to Europe several times. Eventually she attended French universities in Paris and Grenoble. Paget also attended conferences and extensively read her favorite classics. In November 1916, she delivered a lecture titled “Special Points in Classroom Technics” to the 8th annual conference of the Modern Language Association held in New York.  She must have caught the attention of the chairman of that conference, William R Price, the Modern Language Specialist of the New York State Department of Education in Albany and one of the founders of the MLA.

The next February, Price resigned his position and became the Chair of Modern Languages at Girl’s High School in Brooklyn. There might have been a love connection that explains that, but Price doesn’t divorce his wife of 22 years, Kate, until five years later, after his youngest graduates from high school and enters Columbia on scholarship, and for his commute to Brooklyn he chose to move far from the Bronx to the end of the trolly line in Freeport.

Eventually, however, Price does marry Paget August 7, 1922, and the couple continue their European vacations. William wrote and edited several books and since they both die within the next 18 years, that could have been enough.

Winnifred J Ovitte, the longtime fashion editor of Women's Wear magazine began writing these articles to be distributed by United Press in June of 1928,  She soon decided to find someone else to take over, but why Frances Paget?  One possible connection is that in 1915, as she’d separated from her husband, Attorney Albert Ovitte, that the “Wesley Price” she is listed as the wife of in the New York State Census was actually “William Raleigh Price” Frances’s future husband.

Whether that was true, or they simply met each other aboard a transatlantic crossing, or shared a coffee at a French cafĂ©, or, if the “Frances Paget” who wrote the articles between 1928 and 1931 was merely someone’s pseudonym, the articles were never terribly popular selected to appear in hundreds of newspapers.  Merely dozens with only a handful carrying the feature through its entire run.  I suspect that as opposed to fashion articles explaining ways to update last year’s dress, or how to sew your own on a budget, articles explaining how the clothes ladies were currently wearing were out of style, and must be made with exotic materials, probably didn’t excite female readers after the market crashed and banks were closing.

To close, as all of the best stories have a local connection, this one does, too.  After she retired from Women’s Wear Magazine, Winnifred Jones Ovitte, moved first to San Diego, and then up to 1255 Eucalyptus Ave. in Vista. She died August 3, 1953, and was cremated over at Eternal Hills.

 

 

 

 

 

Boxer - Thief - Groom

RAMON LUGO.—Mexican lightweight fought in 57 contests in which he won 33, lost 17, and had 7 no decisions-all within just four years. Between March 1927 and the end of 1928, Ramon fought 28 times with 22 wins, 2 losses, and 4 no decisions. On August 31,1929, Lugo would fight Barney Ross in his debut. Ross would later be a boxing champion in three weight divisions.

Despite his success, I can’t connect him to someone before or after.  I hope that he was the Ramon Lugo pulled from the bus in Banning on Aug 20, 1935, & arrested for taking $30 from Eloissa Moraga. Charges were dropped after he married her. That makes a great story.

 

Melons That Can Make You Sick

HIGH MELON PRICE PRINCETON, Ind.—A high price was paid by Leonard Harper, Elberfeld, Carlyle Greenlee and Claude McCreary, both of Mackey, Ind. when they received a $10 fine and a 60-day sentence to the penal farm each. The three had stolen 23 melons and intended to take them to a picnic at Elberfeld. All 23 of the melons they picked were green.

From the BLADE TRIBUNE Sept 2, 1930

  

When Women Wearing Pants was Considered Perjury

 On January 11, 1929, Santa Ana police arrested Catherine Rosina Wing, 25, for perjury for posing as a man, dressing in men’s clothes, but also on suspicion of a Mann Act charge. “The Mann Act”, actually titled the White Slave Traffic Act, passed in June, 1910, was used to arrest far more than people forcing women into prostitution. It was used to arrest interracial couples, infidelity, homosexuals, and sometimes men in relationships with underage girls. 


Back in 1927 Catherine, posing as Kenneth Wing, had married Eileen Garnett. I’ve heard that rather than 18, Eileen was 16, and her parents were initially happy their 16-year-old wed, but had the marriage annulled when they found out Kenneth’s sex. Wing was released by the DA, who said that while she committed technical perjury', by misrepresenting the Garnett girl’s age at the time of the marriage. Miss Wing was not otherwise guilty of an offense in going through the ceremony or masquerading as a man, since the statutes apply only where someone has been damaged, and Garnett wasn't harmed.

Ben Preston and his Death Car Roadster

From The Whittier Daily News, Thursday, July 9, 1936:   WICHITA, Kans.—Ben Preston, mechanic, probably owns the world’s most gruesome autom...